February 5, 2017 lyukum

Salo #1 | Dry Salted Pork Belly

Pork Belly with Skin

If salo had wings, it would fly to the heavens

Коли б сало крила мало, під небесами б літало
Ukrainians define salo as a slab of creamy white pork back fat on a golden pigskin. The layer of fat is usually measured with fingers and should be 3-5 fingers thick, with little or no meat.

It is believed that eastern Slav tribes were conquered and subjected many times by steppe nomads from Asia. Nomads were taking their herds of horse, sheep, cattle, and goats. Short-legged pigs were less mobile and left behind. Thus, pork and salo saved Slavs when there was no any other meat.

Ukrainian-Style Salo, Back Fat

Ukrainian-Style Salo, Back Fat

Ukrainian-Style Salo, Pork Belly

Ukrainian-Style Salo, Pork Belly


If I were a rich man, I’d eat salo with more salo on the side

Якби мені паном бути, то я б сало з салом їв
What do you think about eating pure fat? A piece of dark rye bread and thinly sliced salo is a traditional snack to accompany a shot of gorilka in Ukraine. For many Ukrainians, just thinking of it inspires salivation and reverence. It’s the delicacy Ukrainian immigrants smuggle when returning from Ukraine, and the funniest part is that U.S. customs officers know the word salo to ask for it. Ukrainians claim they can say what the pig was fed from the flavor of its salo, which seems tasteless for the rest of humanity.

In the Soviet Union, pigs raised on collective farms had a muscle-building diet which made the pork fat too tough and thin. The best Ukrainian salo was found at farmers markets, coming from home-raised pigs, spoiled with milk and grain and secret ingredients to produce the luxurious fat that melted in the mouth like butter.

As stupid as salo without bread!

Дурне як сало без хліба!

Salo can be consumed raw or cooked. Aged salo and garlic are finely chopped and combined into a paste to flavor borscht at the end of cooking. Since salo is a high-quality back fat, it is used in some traditional sausages. While small pieces of salo are slowly fried to render the fat for cooking, the crispy cracklings (Ukrainian shkvarky) are reserved to become toppings for other dishes.

Сало можна їсти просто з хлібом, краще з чорним. Сало можна їсти з хлібом та цибулею, бажано на природі — від такого поєднання прокидаються народні архетипи, що сплять у душі. Сало можна їсти з хлібом, цибулею та горілкою — це основа основ, стовпи, на яких тримається оте відчуття чогось такого великого, близького, теплого та свіжого, наче сидиш біля багаття та дивишся у нічне небо. Але якщо їсти сало із чорним хлібом, цибулею, горілкою, гірчицею, печеною картоплею та квашеною капустою… Цей смак японці називають «омамі» — «бездоганний».Дмитро Різниченко

You can eat salo just with bread, better — with dark rye bread. You can eat salo with bread and onions, and better — eat them outdoors. It brings up our national archetypes, which are hidden at the bottom of our souls. You can eat salo with bread, onions, and gorilka — this is the very foundation, the bedrock of what we feel like something great, intimate, warm and fresh — as if you are sitting next to a bonfire and gazing up at the starry sky. But if you eat salo with rye bread, onions, gorilka, mustard, baked potatoes, and soured cabbage… That’s what Japanese call “umami” — “irreproachable.”

Salo #1 | Dry Salted Pork Belly

Looking for a slab of pork belly in Central Texas? Easy! Do you want it with pigskin? Not so easy, but possible to find at Mexican meat markets. They are thin and meaty there but exist. When it comes to pork back fat or belly suitable for salo, I couldn’t find anything anywhere for years. Local farm markets, butcher shops, Central Market and HEB meat departments — I talked to many people and visited many local businesses. All was fruitless until I made a trip to Salt & Time. Here is what they say: “We buy whole carcasses directly from Texas ranchers who practice humane husbandry and sustainable environmental stewardship. We place equal value on ethics and flavor and only source meat that has the highest standards in both. Once we receive it we cut, age, cure, dry and smoke our delicious products. […] Whether it’s a classic cut such as Beef Ribeye or Lamb Chops, to less common cuts such as skin-on pork belly or a picanha roast, whatever cut you are looking for, we can cut it. If you’re looking for a hard to find cut, let us know, we’d love to help.” I’ve got a beautiful 4-finger thick pork belly with pigskin, and I have hope for a high-quality pork back fat in the future.

Even though true salo comes from the back of the pig, a thick pork belly with one or two thin layers of meat is what most of Ukrainians consider a treat as well. In any case, it’s a good start for homemade salo in Texas. There are different ways to make salo: dry and wet salting, using cold and hot brine, making it cold or hot smoked. Adding other ingredients to salt rub or brine changes the recipe from region to region. In Kharkov and Poltava region, I’ve seen salo made with salt and garlic only. In Western regions, black pepper and paprika are added to salt (thank you, Taras Mers, for your instructions!). The recipe below is my first experiment with local pork belly and dry salt rub and covers both variations.

Golden pigskin. Traditionally, the first step before butchering the pig carcass is to blacken the pigskin with a torch, wash it with hot water and carefully scrape the charred layer off. It is done 2 or 3 times. After that, the carcass is smoldered with rye hay. The result of this step is a salo with a thin layer of golden, pleasantly chewy and soft golden pigskin, with delicate smokey notes.

Spices, herbs, and seasonings. If you are really into delicious fat, you’ve heard about Italian lardo. Have you ever wondered why rosemary is always added to the dry salt rub (besides the fact that it’s a signature Italian herb, of course)? Yes, there is a special reason, and it’s the same as for thyme and paprika in Ukranian salo salting rub. Rosemary and thyme contain antioxidants that slow oxidation of fat and work as preservatives. Garlic and paprika contain antioxidants as well, and also nitrites and nitrates, which are responsible for color and flavor preservation and prevention of growth of harmful bacteria.

[about basics of wet curing and SALO #2 | CURED IN COLD BRINE PORK BELLY]
[about hot wet curing and SALO #3 | CURED IN HOT BRINE AND SMOKED PORK BELLY]

Salo #1 | Ukrainian Style Salted Pork Belly
Pork Belly with Skin
Print Recipe
Prep Time 5minutes
Passive Time 3days
Servings lb
Pork Belly with Skin
Print Recipe
Prep Time 5minutes
Passive Time 3days
Servings lb
Ingredients
Units:
common ingredients
for Western-Ukrainian version of salt rub
for Eastern-Ukrainian version of salt rub
Ingredients
Units:
common ingredients
for Western-Ukrainian version of salt rub
for Eastern-Ukrainian version of salt rub
Instructions
for making salt rubs
  1. Break bay leaf to smaller pieces. Combine bay leaf, coriander seeds, black pepper corns, and 1 tsp salt and grind using mortar and pestle. (Note: use dedicated for spice grinding coffee grider for larger amounts.) Add paprika and the rest of the salt and mix well.
  2. Peel and slice garlick. Combine dry thyme and 1 tsp salt and grind using mortar and pestle. Add the rest of the salt and garlic and mix well.
for curing
  1. Cut the belly into four blocks, approximately 2" wide and 7" long. Prepare non-reactive containers (glass is preferred): spread flaky salt 1/4" thick on the bottom to absorb juices drawn from the belly. This salt needs to be replaced with dry one at least once during the curing process. You will be curing the belly skin down, which will make the skin tough and salty. Arranging a few bamboo skewers on the bottom will help to reduce this effect.
  2. Blacken the pigskin with a torch. Wet it with hot water and scrape the charred part away. Repeat 1-2 times.
    Blackening pigskin with a torch
  3. Spread salt rubs on parchment paper and roll blocks of pork belly in it, pressing lightly on each side. Place them pigskin down into containers.
    Western Ukrainian-Style Salo, Pork Belly
  4. Western Ukrainian-Style Salo, Pork Belly
  5. Eastern Ukrainian-Style Salo, Pork Belly
  6. Eastern Ukrainian-Style Salo, Pork Belly
  7. Cover the containers and let the pork belly cure for two days in 65F (room temperature during the winter). (Note: For better temperature control, I am curing it in my fruit/vegetable refrigeration unit (45F) for four days.)
  8. In 2 or 4 days (depends on temperature), wash salt rub under cold running water and pat dry salo with paper towels. Transfer salo into dry glass containers covered with cheesecloth or paper towels to mature refrigerated at 34-36F for 1 to 2 weeks. The goal of this step is to slightly air dry it and to let salt distribute from the surface inside.
    Dry cured salo after 4 days in 45F
  9. Eastern salt rub:
    Salo: Eastern salt rub
  10. Western salt rub:
    Salo: Western salt rub
  11. [TO BE CONTINUED] Salo is ready to eat after the first week of maturing. Vacuum pack and freeze for longer storage.
Powered byWP Ultimate Recipe
Tagged: , , , , ,

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

LET'S COOK TOGETHER!

#LYcooking #lyukumcookinglab

new recipes
in your inbox

Subscribe to Lyukum Cooking Lab mailing list to get updates to online recipe collection to your email inbox.