January 18, 2015 lyukum

Canelé, cannelés of Bordeaux

Canele

Wiki’s article:
“A canelé is a small French pastry with a soft and tender custard center and a dark, thick caramelized crust.” Follow the link to read more about these famous pastries.

ChefSteps.com has a culinary investigation of canelé from the food science point of view and the recipe with detailed step-by-step instructions.

There are many good recipes out there. They are similar and different. All of them result in a relatively thin batter, almost as thin as the one you make for crepes. The differences are mostly related to how every cook adjusts the level of sweetness and how the batter is handled and/or baked.

Canele

Canele


Canele

Canele


When you read a recipe pay attention to:

  • The temperature of ingredients when they are blended,
  • The speed of blending,
  • The time for the batter to rest,
  • The temperature of the batter before it goes to the oven,
  • The temperature of the oven,
  • The time in the oven.

All these factors are interconnected. They are adjusted to personal tastes (some like it sweet), type of canelé molds (copper or silicon), ovens, etc.

There are recipe notes important for any combination of factors. For example, you need to give enough time for the flour to hydrate. In other words, if you start with room temperature ingredients, your batter needs at least 1 hour in room temperature for proper flour hydration. If you plan to bake fresh canelés for breakfast and make your batter the day before, you can use cold ingredients — the batter is going to rest refrigerated overnight anyway.

There are other notes specifically related to the type of mold used for making these pastries. Copper molds are the best for canelés, but they are very expensive. Many people prefer silicone molds for that reason. With silicone molds, it is very difficult to get the best caramelized crust canelés are famous for, but there are tips and tricks to achieve decent results. If your molds are made of silicone, read section “Can I bake them in silicone molds?” of ChefSteps canelé class.

Canelé
Canele
Print Recipe
Prep Time 8hours
Cook Time 85minues
Servings canelés
Canele
Print Recipe
Prep Time 8hours
Cook Time 85minues
Servings canelés
Ingredients
Units:
Ingredients
Units:
Instructions
  1. Measure all the ingredients using scales. Get ready all the kitchen tools. You need: sauce pan, blender or whisk, bowl, strainer, seasoned molds, baking sheet lined with silicone mat (to prevent molds from sliding).
  2. Heat the milk and sugar(s) stirring. No need to simmer or boil it. You only need to dissolve sugar. Melt butter in hot milk, also stirring, to emulsify it while it melts. Let it cool down to room temperature.
  3. Blend egg yolks, flour, rum and milk on the lowest speed. Rest the batter for an hour in room temperature, or overnight refrigerated.
  4. Refrigerate the molds. Melted butter applied to a cold mold will coat more evenly. Preheat the oven to 375F. Strain the batter to remove most of air bubbles. They were incorporated into the batter during the blending/whisking.
  5. When ready to bake, place one mold on the scales, measure 75g of batter, note the level. Fill the rest of the molds to the same level. Place them on the baking sheet, spaced, and bake till they are dark brown. In my oven it takes 1 hour and 15 minutes.
  6. It is very important to remove pastries from their molds when they are still hot. Use kitchen towel! Turn every mold upside-down and shake to release the pastry. Let them cool down completely. Enjoy!
Recipe Notes

The best copper quality/price mold I could find are sold by JB Prince. They need to be seasoned before the first use. They are seasoned the same way as cast iron. See "Seasoning and cleaning your molds" for more instructions. Important! If for some reason you need to clean your molds with soap and/or scrubbing, they have to be seasoned again.

I buy my dextrose on amazon.com. You can use 125g of sugar instead of 110g sugar and 15g of dextrose mix. Your caneles will be more sweet.

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Nutrition Facts
Canelé
Amount Per Serving
Calories 271 Calories from Fat 117
% Daily Value*
Total Fat 13g 20%
Saturated Fat 8g 40%
Polyunsaturated Fat 1g
Monounsaturated Fat 4g
Cholesterol 107mg 36%
Sodium 22mg 1%
Potassium 81mg 2%
Total Carbohydrates 32g 11%
Dietary Fiber 0.4g 2%
Sugars 23g
Protein 4g 8%
Vitamin A 4%
Vitamin C 0.1%
Calcium 6%
Iron 2%
* Percent Daily Values are based on a 2000 calorie diet.

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Comments (4)

  1. Tanya M

    How did I miss this recipe? Thank you for updating the Chefsteps instructions and correcting some of the issues. Getting air bubbles out of the batter is critical. Bubbles give canele a suffle-like consistency and lift instead of custard core.
    I use silicone molds for canele. I have found Chez Pim discussion of canele baking in silicone mold very helpful. The temperature regimen suggested by Chefsteps results in a very pale canele that does not hold the shape well. Higher baking temps brown canele better. Another key point is to bake canele in silicone mold on a rack rather than baking sheet to allow hot air circulation. Mold gives a set distance between canele which is too crowded. When the bottoms of the silicone molds are exposed they brown better and more evenly. Here is a lonk to Chez Pim’s cabele page. http://chezpim.com/bake/caneles-silicone-molds
    Thank you!

  2. Jenya

    Hello and thank you for sharing your work!
    Could you please specify how many egg yolks needed for the recipe?
    Thank you again, I enjoy your livejournal very much and was happy to find out about the site.

    • lyudavitaya

      Thank you, Jenya, for catching it! I corrected the list of ingredients and the nutritional info.
      Thank you for your kind words! I am happy to see you here!

Comments are closed.

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