January 29, 2019 lyukum

Boring British Food | New Yorkshire Pudding

New Yorkshire Pudding

Boring British Food Project

It’s been five years since Boring British Food project came to an end. It was a lot of fun to collaborate with my friend Katya who published more than a dozen books about the Victorian era. We discovered a remarkable number of dishes from the British Islands that became regular in my kitchen. The Yorkshire Pudding is one of them. Our version makes fast and easy dinner, and it is true to Yorkshire Pudding historical roots. Winter is an excellent time to enjoy it!

I remember it. Katya and I are going to my new kitchen under the dark and gloomy November skies. It’s perfect weather to cook something comforting. Katya is giving me a Yorkshire Pudding historical background. In my imagination, I picture a dim medieval kitchen with the only light coming from a huge open-hearth. A boy, a very young cook, is roasting a whole ram by slowly rotating a spit in front of the blazing fire. Under the spit, on top of the hot coals, there is a tray with batter. Flavorful meaty juices and sizzling fatty drippings go right there, on top of it. The batter heaves and turns into appetizing golden puffs. The boy’s mouth is watering. Mine too. This pudding is to be served at the beginning of the dinner to temper guests’ appetite before modest portions of more expensive meat appear on the table.

Despite the name, the same cooking method was used all over Britain. Though, the north and the south have always been arguing whose version is tastier — with or without the golden crust. Not all puddings were savory and served with the gravy. Some savory versions were served with mustard and vinegar, while dessert creations were accompanied by various sugar, jams, syrups, and molasses.

Recorded Recipes

“A Dripping Pudding” in The Whole Duty of a Woman, 1737

Make a good batter as for pancakes; put in a hot toss-pan over the fire with a bit of butter to fry the bottom a little then put the pan and butter under a shoulder of mutton, instead of a dripping pan. Frequently shake it by the handle and it will be light and savory, and fit to take up when your mutton is enough; then turn it into a dish and serve it hot.

“A Yorkshire Pudding” in The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy by Hannah Glasse, 1747

Take a quart of milk, four eggs, and a little salt, make it up into a thick batter with flour, like a pancake batter. You must have a good piece of meat at the fire, take a stew-pan and put some dripping in, set it on the fire; when it boils, pour in your pudding; let it bake on the fire till you think it is nigh enough, then turn, a plate upside down in the dripping pan, that the dripping might not be blacked; set your stew-pan on it under your meat and let the dripping drop on the pudding, and the heat of the fire come to it, to make it of a fine brown. When your meat is done and sent to table, drain all the fat from your pudding, and set it on the fire again to dry a little; then slide it as dry, at you can into a dish, melt some butter, and pour it into a cup, and set it in the middle of the pudding. It is an excellent good pudding; the gravy of the meat eats well with it.

Making Yorkshire Pudding in a Modern Kitchen

Tips:

  • Let the batter rest for 45-60 min at room temperature or refrigerated overnigh to let the flour hydrate properly.
  • Let the oven get really hot.
  • Let the baking mold to become smoking hot with enough fat on the bottom.
  • The baking mold should be deep and HALF-filled with COLD batter.
  • The meat cut or ground meat should NOT be lean. I recommend NZ lamb.
  • The meat to batter ratio should require the same time for cooking.
Boring British Food | New Yorkshire Pudding
New Yorkshire Pudding
Print Recipe
Prep Time 5minutes
Cook Time 25minutes
Passive Time 15minutes
Servings servings
New Yorkshire Pudding
Print Recipe
Prep Time 5minutes
Cook Time 25minutes
Passive Time 15minutes
Servings servings
Ingredients
Units:
for pudding batter
for lamb
Ingredients
Units:
for pudding batter
for lamb
Instructions
for pudding batter
  1. Take a cup of milk, four eggs, salt, and pepper, make it up into a thick batter with flour, like a pancake batter. Let it rest for 45 min at room temperature.
for lamb
  1. Preheat oven to 400F.
  2. Prepare the lamb chops. Season them with salt, pepper, and spices/herbs of your choice.
    Rack of lamb cut to chops
  3. Some of the lamb chops have a shorter rib bone. Use a small bamboo skewer to secure the meat and cut off the ends of the skewer.
    Lamb chops with short rib bone
  4. Prepare 8 pieces of foil. Use them to cover the exposed part of the bone as shown on the picture.
    In addition to preventing the bones form burning, the foil will also keep two chops standing in a ramekin.
  5. In addition to preventing the bones from burning, the foil will also keep two chops standing in a ramekin.
    In addition to preventing the bones form burning, the foil will also keep two chops standing in a ramekin.
  6. Place the ramekins on a baking sheet and in the hot oven. Give the lamb chops 5 minutes to render some fat that will be collected on the bottom of the ramekins.
  7. Remove them from the oven and fill the ramekins with cold batter half full. I know it's obvious, but just in case — do not remove the lamb chops. Put the baking sheet with the ramekins back into the oven and continue baking for another 15 minutes.
  8. Finally, broil the pudding and lamb chops until golden brown for about 3-5 minutes.
    Broiling the Yorkshire Pudding
  9. Remove the foil before serving. (It fills like a good smokey whiskey-based glaze could be appropriate here to brush hot chops or to serve as a dipping sauce on the side.)
    New Yorkshire Pudding
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