I divide all Harissa recipes into three groups: basic, variable, and exquisite ones. For basic harissas, the list of ingredients is shorter — dried chiles bring heat and fruity flavors, cumin and coriander represent spices, garlic (often sun-dried) adds pungence, salt, and olive oil. Variable harissas may include sun-dried tomatoes and fire roasted sweet peppers, onion, and herbs. Extra fancy harissas have an extensive list of spices and herbs and even include Damask rosebuds. My recipe belongs to the second category.
This recipe is based on me Japanese soufflé cheesecake, which is also known as “cotton” cheesecake. Very popular in Asian countries for its texture — fluffy and velvety creamy at the same time — it is getting more and more known in the U.S. Just like regular cheesecakes, this souffle cheesecake can be flavored with vegetable and fruit purees. This pumpkin cheesecake is as soft and creamy as a mousse, with delicate flavors of honey and pumpkin.
Gratin Dauphinois is known much better than Gâteau de Pommes de Terre, isn’t it? Gratin Dauphinois (aka potato gratiné in the U.S.) is made with thinly sliced layered potatoes and cream in a buttered dish rubbed with garlic. For the cake, potatoes are sliced thick and boiled first. Then, potato slices are mixed with some duck fat and smashed in the skillet to be cooked for the second time as a cake with golden brown and crispy crust. Traditionally, this French potato cake is served with nothing but chopped fresh garlic and parsley on top. So, feel free to omit fennel and smoked fish. But they are so good together!
Seven years ago, we came to San Francisco and spent the whole day with our friends, walking and talking. It was time for lunch when we were passing by the Ferry Building Marketplace. “You have to try this red cabbage salad!” — said my friend and led us to The Slanted Door…
This recipe is one of my favorite salads with red cabbage. My Mom used to make it with white cabbage, imitation crabmeat, and canned corn kernels, dressed with mayo. After moving to the U.S., I eventually substituted white cabbage with red and an imitation crabmeat with the crustacean. Who cares about imitation when the real stuff is readily available? Love it dearly and still name it Mom’s Cabbage Salad.
Tomahawk hypnotizes me. It enchants me. I go shopping for vegetables and shrimp but then see a tomahawk steak showcased at the meat department and come to a dead stop. I stand still and look at it for minutes. At its price. At its enormous useless bone, for which I will pay the price of meat. At its gorgeous marbling. At its 2 inches of thickness. I imagine how I carry it to the red hot grill and hold its bone with my two hands…
Hatch season is relatively short. There are only so many Hatch dishes we can have within a few weeks — we cannot possibly try them all. That’s why I anticipate every next harvest — to discover and enjoy new recipes. This year, mild Hatch stuffed with crabmeat is my new find. The combination was featured by Central Market. I adjusted their original idea to my taste and kept making it every other day — so good!
For years my tians looked similar — overlapping round slices of vegetables layered in an alternating pattern. After the successful variation of Patlican Kebabi, I wanted to try the same arrangement of vegetables for tian. And loved it!
Last year, out of curiosity I experimented with traditionally red Middle Eastern recipes — Zhoug, Harissa, Dukkah, Shakshuka — replacing red ingredients with locally available green and featuring Hatch green chile peppers. Everyone liked green harissa and green dukkah, but their combination in shakshuka was a hit.