June 10, 2017 lyukum

My Hawaii: Ricotta Curdled with Ocean Water

Hawaiian Breakfast: Ricotta and Tropical Fruit

Why “My”?


I visited Hawaii (Big) Island for the first time in 2006. We landed in Kona Airport surrounded by black lava on a cloudy December day, and my first words were: “Wait a minute, where is paradise?!” This place doesn’t show off. The island does not open up readily just for anybody to adore it from the first sight. You have to explore and earn it.

Every time I come to visit this island, I feel a connection that helps me to discover and to learn a little bit more about its nature, plants, animals, people, culture, history. It’s magical. We open up to each other slowly; we watch each other changing over time. That’s why it is MY place even though I am not local or know everything there is to know about it.

Hawaiian Ricotta

Every time I am on the island, I make Hawaiian ricotta. I named it Hawaiian because I make it with the ocean water from the Ili Ili (“pebble” in Hawaiian) Beach, which is a few steps from the house we rent. For a long time, I was wondering why nobody makes curdled with ocean water cheese in Hawaii. With so many Japanese, Chinese, and Australian immigrants and travelers on the island, it could have become a signature cheese for the state of Hawaii! “In Hawaii, just pouring the stuff can make us wince. Milk is expensive here.” — explains “Living Hawaii: Where Milk Can Cost as Much as Wine” article. It is possible that only eccentric gourmet-oriented tourists [like me] can afford to make cheese here.

Acid (lactic acid, vinegar, citrus juice) and enzymes (rennet, chymosin) are well-known milk coagulants. They are used in cheesemaking for ages. The coagulant derived from the sea or ocean water is also traditional but mostly used in Asian cuisines for tofu making. In China, it is known as lushui, in Japan — as nigari. Ocean water is very salty, and it might seem that sodium chloride (salt) is responsible for curdling the milk, but the real coagulating agent is magnesium chloride. Lushui and nigari are made by removing the salt from the ocean water (preferably very clean deep water) and evaporating moisture until a pure coagulant is left. Australian and Tunisian cuisines are the only two I know that use ocean and sea water for making cow milk cheese.

Why Bother?

It’s simple. The texture of cheese curdled with ocean water is fantastic. It is creamy-soft and, for the lack of a better word, juicy, even after straining most of the whey. I could never get the same results when making ricotta with mozzarella whey or acidic water. The ratio of salty ocean water to milk may seem scary, but this ricotta tastes surprisingly sweet with only an intriguing trace of saltiness and minerality. I suppose the unique chemical composition of ocean water, in general, is responsible for the effect, and probably it’s the Kona water in particular. No wonder, deep water near Kona is bottled and exported to Japan.

Ricotta Curdled with Ocean Water
Hawaiian Breakfast: Ricotta and Tropical Fruit
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Prep Time 5minutes
Servings pound
Hawaiian Breakfast: Ricotta and Tropical Fruit
Votes: 0
Rating: 0
You:
Rate this recipe!
Print Recipe
Prep Time 5minutes
Servings pound
Ingredients
Units:
  • 1/2gallonmilkwhole cow milk, ~2L
  • 2cupsocean water+1 cup if you like to make cheese more savory
Ingredients
Units:
  • 1/2gallonmilkwhole cow milk, ~2L
  • 2cupsocean water+1 cup if you like to make cheese more savory
Instructions
  1. Prepare a basket lined with unscented paper towel or cheesecloth.
  2. Pour milk into a saucepan and slowly bring it to almost simmering, about 175F. Stir it from time to time to make sure it is not burning on the bottom.
  3. When a milk protein foam starts forming on the serface of the milk, add ocean water, stir for the last time, and let it start simmering again. Simmer for 1-2 minutes and turn the heat off. Watch how milk cirdles. The whey is far from being clear, very milky.
    Hawaiian Ricotta
  4. Transfer soft curds into prepared basket. Strain the whey.
    Hawaiian Ricotta
  5. Place some weght to press more whey out of cheese. At this step you can control how much moister to keep in your ricotta. I used a bottle of Hawaiian rum as a press for about 2 hours.
    Hawaiian Ricotta
  6. Place cheese into a closed container and keep refrigerated for up to 3 days. Serve sliced with Hawaiian sweet bread, lilikoi butter, local honey, fresh fruit, and a cup of tea or coffee.
    Hawaiian Breakfast: Ricotta and Tropical Fruit
Recipe Notes

Оригинал: Рикотта по-тунисски
История рикотты. Рецепт тунисской рикотты

Гавайская рикотта (2013)
Коагулирующим агентом в морской воде является не хлорид натрия (пищевая соль), а хлорид магния (хлористый магний). Кроме туниссцев это секрет знали китайцы и японцы, которые используют этот же коагулянт для приготволения тофу. Из морской воды удаляют хлорид натрия и выпаривают воду, получая таким образом чистый коагулянт, который в Японии называют Нигари, а в Китае lushui (не уверена как это звучит русскими буквами, Лушуи?). Этот коагулянт позволяет получить необыкновенно шелковистые и пушистые сгустки как у коровьего, так и у соевого молока.

FYI: Ea O Ka Aina: Beware of "Hawaii's Fresh" milk

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TASTES ARE MADE, NOT BORN

Culinary coach and personal chef with extensive knowledge of various ethnic cuisines,
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